I think the point is, he is calling a woman fat, and blaming it on self-indulgence - that is, lack of professionalism. That's very different from saying, "her overall form lacks the grace that I would like to see in a ballerina".
Turtledove, do you truly think this dancer's shape is from eating too much? You claim that your sole concern in these discussions is health. Do you think she would be healthier if she lost ten or twenty more pounds?
Furthermore, one would think that a professional critic would have the intellectual spauldings to consider more than "Ooooh, I like the leetle sticklike girls! That's what makes me happy! Don't show me anything else!" He might reflect on the gender politics of enforced waifdom, and maybe even consider the implications of developing an aesthetic that does not force more than half its professional practitioners into eating disorders.